Argentina - Escorted Travel - Patagonia Orcas

The Stranding Behavior of the Patagonia Orcas, Argentina.

“Look at the seals,” said Hector, pointing to my left side while we were sitting behind the blind across from the channel of attack. I was following the two seals movements through the 300 mm lens, I couldn't see the speeding Orca coming straight at me.

“The Orca was moving so fast directly toward our position that in its powerful motion, pushing its five-ton body, the Orca created a four-foot wave around its head (looking like a submarine on course for a head-on collision). In the wake of the wave surrounding the Orca, I saw the image I had dreamed about while waiting behind the blinds during the past few weeks. One seal was caught out in the wave in the Orca’s powerful jaws. The other one just escaped!"

Every year since 1976, the arrival of Transient / Resident Orcas to the Peninsula Valdez has been observed.

The Orcas patrol along the steep pebble coastline of Punta Norte, listening to the young seals, only a few weeks old, as they play in the water or cross from one colony to the next.
Patagonia Orcas defy our common knowledge, research, observation and accepted reality about Orca behavior. All the current data is actually based on the observation and research taken place in BC, Canada in the past 20 years.

According to Roberto Bubas, the charismatic and proud Argentinean Orcas Lead Ranger - "Orcas are present all year around in Peninsula Valdez and along the coastline of Patagonia, and should therefore be considered Resident according to the BC accepted truth about Orcas. However, their feeding and social behavior here in Valdez, is just like that of the Transient Orcas off British Columbia,” said Roberto.

While it is difficult to determine what is right or different, I know that the Orcas in Peninsula Valdez put on an outstanding show of natural predation, which is called "Intentional Stranding" and it is the most extraordinary wildlife show on earth.

There are about seven adult Orcas and three juveniles split into two pods that arrive here every year, along with the old male named Mel. (Mel is about 40 years old and was a star in few of the documentaries filmed by Geographic, and the recent famed BBC Blue Planet Series.) The Orcas come here to feed by ambushing the young and inexperienced seals that are born here in January & February. The Orcas' intentional stranding happens only when the sea is relatively calm and during a period of three hours before and after high tide. The Orcas choose this time as a way of protection.

When these conditions are right, the Orcas will patrol the beach until they see or hear the right sound to launch an attack. At this time, everything moves very fast and with an awesome power that only Orcas can exhibit. For every five attempts to rush and attack the seals, only one attack is successful.

Roberto's observation in past eight years of the Valdez Orcas is priceless and he expresses great concern about the future of the intentional stranding behavior believing that we are seeing the last of this learned behavior.

Roberto indicates that although there are two known locations in the world for Orcas stranding, the behavior at Crozet Island (in the South sea, sub Antarctica, France) is remarkably different from the one in Argentina.

On Crozet Island, the Orcas are assisted by the river flowing into the sea. The river, pushing the seals in front of the waiting Orcas by the beach line, is known as "semi stranding." In Peninsula Valdez, the stranding is Intentional and you will see half or more of an Orca’s body out of the water and up on the pebble beach.

The Orcas effort to return to sea and the coordination of a seal hunt is much greater and requires several skills in order to reach acceptable success in the hunting rate.
Roberto points out that there are only three adult Orcas now that know how to hunt successfully while stranding. He warns that we may see the last of this behavior, an acquired trick that demands training and leadership.

Among the three adults, only two are proficient at it - the master, Mel and Maga. Maga is the leading female of this pod. Mel is too old (over 40 years old) to teach and he is considerably sick with a tumor on his left jaw. With his disappearance and or death, there is a good chance that this pod will disappear as well from the shores of Valdez - pushed away by other dominant pods that include active males.

The weather here is very temperamental, as it is open from all directions with its location on the edge of the continent on the Atlantic Ocean. Only by investing six to seven hours a day, everyday, will we be able to capture this phenomena on film. The action here is wild and unpredictable leaving some empty and slow moving days. This time will sharpen our observational skills and teach us not to take anything for granted.

The "stranding beach" is protected from the crowds. Many people arrive here from Argentina and around the world to observe the phenomenon. However, these observers stay on top of the cliff some 50 feet higher above the beach and 70 feet away from the shoreline.

The only way to get down to the beach is to be escorted by a local nature guard, or, Gurda Fauna. A permit is required and issued by the local government. We have already received the professional permit. We are to be escorted during the entire stay with an official that will guide us along the shore and to the photography blinds making sure that we do not disturb the seals and get too close to the incoming Orcas.
To be able to get the most out of this remarkable photography event I select to stay very close to the action in Punta Norte. There is a private, warm and rustic sheep ranch named "Laernestina" (home for 7,000 head of finest Marino sheep, on 15,000 hectors) located 5 miles away from the "stranding" beach.

Last year, the owners, the gracious Copello family lead by their young son Juan, developed a four room Bed and Breakfast that we are going to use. I will have rented a 4x4 to transport us everyday to and from the beach and at times to the nearest civilization at Piramidas some 50 miles away.

Punta Norte is a remote location on the Northern most East corner of Peninsula Valdez. There is no paved road, phone, Internet or electricity in this location. Electricity is provided at night only by a local generator. Water is brought to the ranch from a local spring.

The atmosphere around here is invigorating. The food is outstanding, particularly the fresh grilled lamb called "Asado." The world's best-known meat is from Argentina and the lamb, raised in nature and grilled by the gaucho Vitorio, is divine.

Although this is not a diving or in-water activity, photographically it is one of the most rewarding events to document. You will be faced with thousands of Magellanic penguins, extraordinary stretches of pebble beaches, an exceptionally photogenic old lighthouse set against blazing sunsets, stars, and night photography that will challenge your Imagination. You will have a new culture to explore and the environment of Punta Norte to cherish”.
- Amos Nachoum

Photograph courtesy of Amos Nachous